How to Choose the Best Crankbaits for Bass Fishing

Every bass angler needs a variety of crankbaits to choose from. Bill length, body material and design all impact the lure’s diving depth and action. (Photo by Joe Balog)

You need a good supply of crankbaits in order to call yourself a well-rounded bass angler. From the inception of the first diving plugs in the 1920s to the modern-day advancements in deep-water crankbaits, this category of lures has always played an important role in bass fishing.

I’ve owned thousands of crankbaits, and I find myself obsessed with their performance. No doubt, some crankbaits are better than others, and particular designs excel in certain conditions. Through observation of crankbait-fishing experts and my own on-the-water trial and error sessions, I’ve learned the scoop on the subtleties of these lures. Here’s what you need to know to become a better cranker.

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DETERMINING DIVING DEPTH

It’s tempting to group crankbaits together into one big lure category, but further review shows that crankbait fishing is more nuanced than that. While body style affects action and diving capability to a degree, the bill affects crankbait performance more than anything else.

For our purposes, we’re omitting lipless crankbaits. Rat-L-Traps and their close cousins are phenomenal fish catchers, but they require a review of their own. Today, we’re just talking lipped divers.

For crankbait success, you must match the diving depth of the crankbait to the holding depth of the bass. (Photo by Realtree)

The formula for a crankbait’s diving depth capability can be basically summarized as follows: the longer the bill and the more in-line it is with the body of a crankbait, the deeper a plug will run. So, bills that begin straight off the nose of the lure are capable of diving the deepest, while bills that begin under the chin of the bait generally run shallower. That bill placement is key.

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After that, bill length determines diving potential; the longer the bill, the deeper the crankbait will run. A long, straight bill cuts through the water with ease, allowing the lure to travel deep in the water column. Bills positioned further underneath the crankbait’s chin produce more drag and limit diving depth, but they often create a more erratic and enticing action. Your quest for choosing the right crankbait for any particular day of fishing begins with looking at the bill. Quite simply, if the bass are holding at 10 feet deep but your lure only runs 4 feet deep, there’s not much chance for success. Matching the diving depth of the crankbait to the holding depth of the bass is step one in crankbaiting success.

FIND THE WIGGLE AND THE WOBBLE

Once you’ve determined how deep you need to be fishing and what your crankbait options are for reaching that depth, it’s time to consider the lure’s action. Here, we can rely on another generalization: streamlined, narrow bills produce subtle actions, while wider, squared-off bills produce more aggressive actions. Wider bills with a flatter surface and sharper corners displace more water and create more wobble. Long, narrow bills help the bait dive quickly and swim straight.

Then there are hybrid bill designs, such as those that are positioned under the chin of the lure but are long, and specialized “coffin bill” designs that have multiple corners, which allows them to ricochet off cover and remain relatively snag free. More on that in a minute.

Wider, squared-off bills with a flatter surface and sharper corners displace more water and create more wobble. (Photo by Joe Balog)

How much wiggle do you need from your crankbait? That depends on how aggressive the bass are acting. In cold, clear water, a subtle or “tight” wobble is usually best. As water warms or becomes more stained, choose lures with a wider, more pronounced wobble. This allows bass to key in on the lures more readily using senses other than sight.

Body style and length also affect wobble, as longer, thinner crankbaits generally have a tighter, more subtle wobble than short, fat crankbaits.

WHAT MATERIAL IS BEST?

Modern crankbaits are made from plastic (hollow) or wood (solid). Each material has its pros and cons. Plastic crankbaits are consistent. A big-billed plastic plug designed to dive 10 feet will likely do so right out of the package, and another one of the same make and model will likely perform exactly the same way. Occasionally, a particular lure will have a unique characteristic but for the most part, plastic crankbaits are consistent. Today’s plastic plugs often have internal weights that allow them to be cast a long way, and to dive quickly. They’re very durable and can be purchased with or without rattles. Plastic crankbaits are less buoyant than wooden crankbaits, in general, and many of them suspend when the retrieve is paused.

Coffin bills with multiple corners are great for fishing around cover because they tend to deflect easily, preventing some snags. (Photo by Joe Balog)

Wooden crankbaits have more unique characteristics, lure to lure, than plastic crankbaits. Two identical wooden plugs often dive differently, achieving slightly different depths and each having a unique wobble. Wooden crankbaits are usually very buoyant and heavy, allowing for long casts. They fish well in and around cover, as their buoyancy allows wooden lures to “back out” of snaggy situations. Wooden crankbaits are durable, but they can be prone to having bill problems if they are repeatedly rammed into stumps and rocks. Wooden crankbaits lack the consistency of plastic ones, but the material provides the best chance at discovering a “magic” crankbait with undeniable fish-catching action.

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Due to their bounce and often wide wobble, wooden crankbaits are often the best choice in warm, dirty water. Plastic baits are usually better in cold water or when attempting to get to extreme depths, though there are exceptions to both rules.

THE CRANKBAIT X-FACTOR

Understanding a few more subtleties of crankbait design can help you catch more bass. Again, pay attention to the bill’s shape, and not just for the running depth. Squared-off bill corners, as we touched on, excel at fishing around cover because of the way they make the crankbait deflect after contacting an object. Those corners tend to jump the bait off the object at an accelerated, random rate, provoking reaction strikes.

The longer the bill and the more in-line it is with the body of a crankbait, the deeper a plug will run. (Photo by Joe Balog)

The paint job is also important on a crankbait. Frequently, faded, old crankbaits catch more fish than brand-new ones due to subtle differences in hue. You can get ahead of the curve by leaving crankbaits on your dashboard for a month or so, flipping them over occasionally like you’re cooking a burger. Believe it or not, some older wood baits get their magic from the amount of paint on them. A few extra coats, maybe a drip, produces a lure that’s slightly off balance and often briefly runs haphazardly, triggering strikes. This and other one-offs produce an action often referred to as “hunting.” A crankbait that hunts turns in and out, and then tracks true again. Such action is irresistible to bass.

Once you find a crankbait that hunts, mark it and be sure to only use the lure when it counts. Have a plug knocker nearby if it snags up. Or a mask and snorkel. It may sound excessive, but certain crankbaits are almost supernatural in their ability to catch bass. To find one, start with the fundamentals: lip and body design, material, and paint job. Then, start fishing and keep an eye out for that one crankbait that just seems magic. You’ll know it when you see it, because the bass won’t leave it alone.