What to Look for in a New Turkey Gun

Turkey guns are specialized tools. Many of today’s sub-gauge guns throw incredible patterns, but are lightweight and easy to carry. Realtree image

I’d just hopped off my e-bike and was about to cut and yelp when a gobbler boomed a few hundred yards away. Instead of calling from where I was, I slipped down a logging road to within 200 yards of the boisterous bird. On a ridge top, I scuttled off the logging road, parked my hinder against an old maple, and began calling.

The tom held tight for about 20 minutes, gobbling dozens of times. This was on public land, and he’d probably played the game before. I called periodically, and then stopped altogether. Finally, I spotted him slinking through the hardwoods. But rather than walking up the logging road as I had hoped, he perched on a ridge adjacent to mine, scanning for the “hen” that he’d heard.

Carefully, I scratched some leaves, made some muffled yelps, then tossed more leaves. As an old gobbler often does, he came in but swung wide below my ridge. I ranged a tree at 55 yards, and when he was next to it with his neck strung out, I unleashed a TSS swarm and claimed my longest-spurred gobbler ever.

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I didn’t need a fancy gun to make that long shot. I was shooting a Benelli Nova pump-action 12-gauge that I purchased used back in 2009 for $280. Even though I often carry that second-hand Nova and have swatted dozens of turkeys with it, I’ve taken plenty of gobblers with other shotguns, old and new. You don’t have to have a gun that’s dedicated to turkey hunting to be successful — but many of them are pretty nice. If you’re shopping for a new one ahead of this season, keep these things in mind

SET YOUR BUDGET

Shotguns that are suitable for turkey hunting range immensely in price. Some cost only a couple hundred bucks, while others are a couple thousand. The first order of business while shopping is to draw your budgetary line in the sand. Most of us would love a high-end gun, but not all of us can justify spending the money to get one.

You don’t have to have an expensive shotgun to kill a turkey. But some of the high-end guns are pretty nice. Photo by kenny_j.

The good news is that you don’t have to, as my battered Benelli Nova has proven. For $300-500, you can get a dependable, solid-performing gun. Regardless of price, make sure that any potential turkey gun you buy accepts thread-in chokes so that you can rig it with a turkey choke. Besides that, here are some things to keep in mind.

GAUGES

Sub-gauge shotguns are popular right now with turkey hunters. For youngsters or anyone who’s recoil sensitive, the .410 bore has become a viable option. Outfitted with the right choke and TSS loads, the .410 becomes deadly. Some guns produce shredding patterns out to 40 yards and even beyond. Many .410 turkey guns are single-shots, and are very lightweight and portable.

The 28-gauge is another great, low-recoil option that’s having a moment in the turkey woods right now, with several ammo companies producing 3-inch turkey loads, and a variety of new shotgun options as well. Hevi-Shot’s new 28-gauge turkey load has a 1 1/4-ounce payload, only 1/4 less than a 20-gauge.

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Speaking of the 20-gauge, it is of course the second-most popular choice for turkey hunters, with a variety of ammo options with both TSS and lead shot. Most TSS 20-gauge loads have a 1 1/2-ounce payload at 1,200 feet per second, and they’re lethal on gobblers. Many 20-gauge guns are very lightweight, too, with Franchi and Benelli semi-autos tipping the scales at just 6 pounds.

Still, for most turkey hunters, a 12-gauge is the best all-around choice. There are more load options to choose from — 2 3/4-, 3-, and 3 1/2-inch — and shells are easy to find on shelves. There’s no such thing as overkill on a gobbler, and the heaviest 3 1/2-inch 12-gauge loads carry a staggering 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 ounces of TSS shot. That’s like hitting a gobbler twice with a 28-gauge. Yet, you can download a 12 for recoil management, too. There are plenty of 2 3/4-inch loads on the market, many of which carry a payload similar to a 3-inch 20-gauge, but often with less felt recoil. I personally have nothing against 20-gauge turkey guns, but the recoil on some of the lightest guns can be downright vicious, and so if the motivation for choosing one is less kick, then there is a point of diminishing return if picking it instead of a 12.

The 12-gauge is still the most versatile option for turkey hunters. Realtree image

ACTIONS

Standard shotgun actions include pump, semi-automatic, and break-action, with pump and semi-autos being the most popular for turkey hunting. Pump-actions are generally affordable, easy to shoot, rugged and highly reliable. They can be found in a variety of sizes and configurations to fit every hunter. The downside to pumps is that many are noisier to carry due to the moving fore-grip, and most aren’t built quite as nicely as higher-priced semi-autos. Plus, since they don’t use any of the shell’s energy to operate the action, users get the full recoil effect.

Semi-autos have become very popular with serious turkey hunters. The guns are either gas- or recoil-operated, but both styles help reduce felt recoil, compared to pump-actions. Follow-up shot capability is instantaneous, and quality guns are extremely reliable. Many turkey hunters use their semi-auto shotguns for for waterfowl and small game as well. Expense is their primary downside.

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I believe break-action guns are the safest option for inexperienced hunters. Most turkey models are single-shots, though some hunters swear by over / under guns, too, because they can hit the woods with two choke tube options at their fingertips.

I mentor a lot of new, young turkey hunters and a single-shot is usually what I choose for them to shoot. The gun can be carried broken open so that it’s absolutely safe. Plus, the single-shot limitation forces new hunters to concentrate on making a good shot. Single-shots are simple, too. Lack of a repeating action means no jammed shells or malfunctions. Most of them are lightweight and affordable. Increased recoil and lack of a follow-up shot are their major downsides.

Worthwhile accessories for a turkey gun include sling studs, an optics base, and a good turkey choke tube. Realtree image

LENGTH, WEIGHT, AND BALANCE

Turkey hunting can land you in awkward shooting scenarios. Toms can slip in from directly behind you or from other unexpected angles, and shifting to acquire the bird is simplified by choosing a maneuverable, comfortable gun that fits you really well. This helps with handling and shooting accuracy. When you’re shopping, be sure to shoulder a prospective new gun from a few sitting positions.

Though lightweight guns are a joy to carry, I do caution against going too light; lighter means more recoil, and the guns can be a bit wispy to aim and swing. No matter the gauge, most models are available with different barrel lengths and stock lengths (called length of pull). Don’t settle for one that feels too short or too long. Hitting your target with a shotgun, even a stationary turkey, is easier when the gun fits just right.

WORTHWHILE ACCESSORIES

It’s awfully nice to have a sling so that you can carry your shotgun safely over your shoulder, freeing up your hands for packing decoys or working a turkey call.

I also suggest purchasing a shotgun that is drilled and tapped for adding an optic. A shotgun barrel with a basic bead suits most hunters, but an optic substantially reduces poor shots and misses — which happen more than you’d think when turkey hunting. Whether the lighting is dim or you’re shooting from an unfamiliar position, it’s too easy to take aim without looking flat down the barrel. If you don’t get your eye down far enough, you’ll shoot high, and if you’re not looking down the center of the barrel, you’ll shoot left or right. An optic, especially one with a circular reticle, eliminates the guesswork. When sighted in, simply put the gobbler’s head in the circle and squeeze the trigger. Whether you’re an expert hunter or novice, a scope or red-dot sight will reduce room for error.

If your new gun didn’t come with a turkey choke tube, do some research and get yourself a tube designed for the loads you’ll be shooting. Some constrictions are more suitable than others depending on what shot size or shot materials (TSS vs. lead) that you use. And, if you hunt in the woods where shots are closer, you can sometimes be better off by choosing a more open, forgiving pattern than something that’s extremely tight.

The most rewarding part of getting a new turkey gun is using it effectively out in the field. Realtree image

Once your gun is rigged the way you like it, spend some time getting comfortable with it by shooting inexpensive trap or field loads. Make sure the center of the pattern hits where you’re aiming. Then, shoot a turkey load at a turkey-head target. Start at 20 yards and walk back in 10-yard increments and shoot. Change the target between each shot and review each pattern to assess your skills and the pattern density at each respective range. You’re looking for a nice dense, even pattern with no gaps. Ten pellets in the kill zone is considered a good minimum for cleanly taking a turkey, so once you find the maximum distance at where your gun will do that, you’ve found your maximum range. More pellets, of course, are better.

The best part comes next, when you’re staring down your sights at that big gobbler you’ve finally called to within range. With your new gun, you can take the shot with all the confidence in the world.